ARCTIC NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE -- This place is a Zen thing. The only way to tell you've wandered in is the absence of anything saying so.
No signs. No road to get here. No advice from government stewards about what to seek out or what to avoid. No entrance fees and no officially licensed T-shirt.
This isn't just wilderness, contend those who want to keep it pristine, but a sanctuary for wildness.
It is also oil country. With just the last half of the last year of the petroleum-friendly Bush administration remaining, the window for opening the land to drilling is about to close. Yet $4 gasoline and a drain-circling economy have made Americans suddenly friendlier to the idea of pumping from the Arctic wilderness.
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